I read about the old style brown Gorilla Glue on the forums. To see the posts, CLICK HERE. Read posts 8 and 15.
Some nose cone plastic is waxy, most glues won't stick to it. The Gorilla Glue seems to work. It held the nose weight very well over the past few months when the model was first assembled.
Today I hit the nose cone against a counter top a few times to see if I could jar the nose weight loose. I hit it pretty hard, probably harder than any boost acceleration could effect the weight. The nose weight finally came loose!
It's an easy fix, I squirted more glue into the nose cone and dripped in a little water. It set up and the weight is again held in the tip of the nose cone.
Even clay weight in an Estes kit can sometimes work loose.
The whole trick to using Gorilla Glue is water.
The instructions on the back label tell you to dampen the two pieces that are to be joined together.
A little bit of water activates the glue and it foams up.
I wouldn't recommend using Gorilla Glue for general model rocket construction. It can come in handy for some things like nose weight retention.
In the instructions for the Bomac, you say to insert the 4.75" of lead shot and check for the C/G pint to be 13.2" from the nose cone tip. Is that with or without an engine?
ReplyDeleteHi Mark G,
DeleteSorry I didn't answer sooner, didn't see this response until today.
I used the original Madcow instructional copy when drawing up the new instructions. So, following that, the weight is added until your get the 13.2" C/G point from the nose cone tip - without the engine installed. That's the way Madcow did it.