Making Rockets Last Longer?

On TRF, DrumGuy89 posted the question:

"I have been lurking around the forum gathering info for sometime, I enjoy building rockets and spend a lot of time and attention on my models. I would like to hear your tips and advice on how to increase the durablitiy of our prized rockets. Not too worried about winning a competition or set an altitude record. Been wondering about aftermarket airframes, ca gluing body tubes, kevlar cord, baffles, paper reinforcements on fins, and any tips you may have to make rockets that last!"



DaddyIsABar wrote:
"Flying is hard on any rocket. It is going to break but repairing it is fun too. More than bulletproofing in the building process is using good flying techniques. The only way to make a rocket last is to fly it well every time. That is really hard to do. A light, stock built rocket flown well will last forever if you repair and maintain it. You must never do anything even slightly stupid with it. Avoid any inclement weather, any trees, any hard landing surface, use only sensible motors, careful prep and always have the perfect sized recovery system in place. Never launch at night or with tall grass around, never close to any roof. A well built, good old school Alpha is the best model, simple paper tube and balsa, never use a C motor. Keep it simple and it will last forever, you may have to replace the shock cord, hundreds of flights. If that gets too boring then more risk will equate to more damage and loss."

Great advice!

Anyone who follows the blog probably knows my building preferences.
For any newbies, here they are in a nutshell -  

I don't use BT-20 or BT-50 tubes. The tube walls are thin and prone to buckling, 
usually right above the fins at the top of the engine mount.
Where I can I use ST-7 tubes (thicker walled) or heavy walled BT-50s.
You can get both at Balsa Machining Service.

• You can replace soft balsa fin stock with harder grade or use basswood. 
• Plastic nose cones won't nick like balsa.
• The old standby of using a LONG shock cord can cut back on snap back damage.
• Seal all exposed surfaces.
• Coat baffle plates (the sides facing down towards the engine mount) with glue.
• Models get the most damage on a hard landing or driving to and from the launch site.
• Keep your fingers clean, especially when making shrouds.
• A better built model will always last longer. Take an extra five minutes on each step of construction and do it right!

In the search window, do a search for "Tips"

Some actually fiberglass LPR body tubes. I think this is unnecessary. While it might be an interesting construction exercise, LPR body tubes are strong enough on their own.

As mentioned above, I shy away from BT-20 and BT-50 tubing, the Estes tubing that tends to buckle. That's where a glued in coupler can help. A coupler also protects the body tube right above the top of the engine from the ejection charge. 

For more information and pictures, CLICK HERE