I prefer doing 1 1/2 wraps of tape with two wraps over the engine hook.
Start the wrap halfway between the Q-tip tube and the engine hook.
The tube and engine hook are directly opposite each other.
Continue all the way around, over the Q-tip tube then back over the starting point.
Continue around over the hook a second time.
Mark the tape on the opposite side you started from. Lift the tape wrap and cut off the tape. Press the tape down - done!
The engine block is recessed about 3/4" inside the top of the engine mount tube. Sometimes a loose block can get glued in crooked when it hits the top bend of the engine hook.
TIP: Apply glue inside the tube and press the block in place with an engine casing. The casing will keep it straight all the way onto the engine hook bend.
Chris, I liked your orange Der Red Max, looked great. As you know I build old school still just like you did back in the 70s. I remember you saying back in the day you did not use primers. How did your rockets come out looking so good by then? Besides balsa sealer what else would you use to makes things look smooth? Was spray primer not used back then?
ReplyDeleteHi David,
DeleteI didn't even know primers existed when I was in my teens. I followed the Estes directions of four coats of sanding sealer, sanding between coats. I did lightly sand any rough areas between color coats. Only a few of the older models still exist. I used Krylon exclusively back then. It wasn't a very opaque paint, I didn't have as much pigment as the spray paints do now. I didn't fill tube seams when I was younger. My earliest builds weren't much, practice makes close!
I'm really surprised you use black electrical tape for engine hook retention. My experience with electrical tape is that it loses its strength when it gets hot... doesn't that make the engine hook retention weak?
ReplyDeleteHi Chris, I prefer the electrical tape over masking tape. I did an "autopsy" on a Centurion after 15 flights over 3 years. The paper masking tape had completely broken down and was flaking off the engine mount tubing. I haven't had that problem with the electrical tape. I would think the engine mount tube would help insulate a bit from the heat. I remember you suggested another tape but I haven't gotten any yet. Until I find something better I'll continue to use the stronger, black tape.
DeleteActually, if I don't have a mylar band (which seem to survive pretty well), I don't use a "band" at all but rather wrap heavy thread around the tube (after applying glue). It has the same sort of strength that you get from fiberglas (though of course not as much of it).
DeleteHi Chris,
DeleteThere's another guy on YORF that does the glue covered string retention of the engine hook. That's probably a better idea than most! I might give that a try.
Hrm... Funny how it never did occur to me to try glue-covered button thread with motor hook -- even though I'd been doing similar thing to attach wire landing gear on model aeroplane structures.
DeleteCome to think of it... never had any problem with the glue-soaked gauze on the Astron Scout (but then again, I'm not flexing the stiff wire hook as much as the standard motor clip)
My vintage kits never mention primer except for newer kits in the 80s. After 4 coats of balsa sealer and primer I still have small areas that need touching up and I use wood filler, sand and spot prime. I guess back in the day using old Krylon you could spray the color, wait a couple hours sand and paint again. Definitely cannot do that with today's enamels. Looking at your Centuri Gabriel Kit that you built the balsa looks flawless even without primer. How did you touch up areas after sealing and spraying your top coat?
ReplyDeleteMaybe someday we will run into each other on one of your cruises. I was thinking about doing the 80s cruise next year. I also see you are a Piper. I play the drums in our Fire Departments Emerald Society Pipes and Drums.
Hi David,
DeleteI don't recall any old kits mentioning primer. You could recoat the original Krylon anytime and not have problems. It was just a little translucent, the only drawback. I don't remember touching up any models back then.
The cruise entertainment market is dwindling. Less and less guest entertainers in the main room. They don't seem to be hiring any act that needs the band. Many ships are getting rid of the larger back-up bands and only offer a trio in the dance lounge.
I only play the bagpipes as a finish to the act. It's strictly a goof but at one time I really worked on grace notes and technique.