You could just leave the nose cone as is, it's molded in black. I sand down the seams and fill the ruts. Primer/filler gets rid of any remaining seam.
The decals (with bad German accents) make the model!
Be careful as you cut out the decals. The clear coat on the big skull and crossbones decal should have been extended out, not so tight against the black outline - possible tears there.
The white decals (bottom piece) are almost impossible to see against the white backing paper. Hold up against a strong light to see the reflective coat.
TIP: I stacked up some CD cases to get a baseline that is parallel to the table top.
Set the decal so it is on top of or evenly spaced (side to side) above the CD case reference.
TRIVIA: I always thought this "TOP SECRET" decal was interesting. The current instructions don't show it on the model. That decal was used on a DOM entry called the Top Secret. Check out the post: CLICK HERE
On the decal sheet the "hit" decal (placed on the fin) is designated as optional. I prefer this funnier decal over the Top Secret decal.
Chris she is looking good, my favorite model. I know you don't get fin warping when using FNF but how did you prevent fin warping when using Balsa sealer?
ReplyDeleteHi David,
DeleteFins will warp when using Carpenter's Wood Filler. When you paint the first side it can warp. Most younger builders panic at that point and vow never to use it again. After you paint the other side it counteracts any warp and the fin usually ends up flat and fine. If you are concerned, set wax paper over the fin and dry under some heavy books.
Many forget that sanding sealer shrinks as it dries and will also warp balsa. Same thing remedy goes for fins with sanding sealer - Usually coating the other side gets rid of any warp. The thinner the balsa the more chance for warps with any wet or water based filler.