That's a LONG ST-20 tube at 19.5"!
Yes, I'm calling it a Centuri ST-20 tube. I like the single long tube instead of two pieces with a coupler. The Centuri kit had an ejection baffle at the two piece tube joint.
This model is based on and uses the capsule and tower molds from the old Centuri kit. The capsule has great detail. The fins are laminated balsa like the Centuri version.
The engine mount is for 18mm engines with the only recommended engine a C6-3. I've seen one fly with a C6-3. With only a 200' altitude it seems under powered. I'll probably make it a 24mm mount and fly it with C11s and D12s. I can still go "low and slow" with a 20/50 adapter.
Pieces of interest:
There is only a single 15" parachute. I'll use that for the body and the capsule will descend separately on an added 12" chute.
A 1 1/2" long 1/8" diameter launch lug is included. Two 1/2" lengths are used. A model this big and heavy might use 3/16" lugs.
Brought up earlier, the red on the decal sheet looks pink. There is the MR7 and too bold a font used on the UNITED STATES.
Time for a redraw and home print decals.
I'll start with the fins first. Some have asked how to sand the tapers.
There'll be a few posts covering it all.
I'm excited to see you build this one! After recently building this myself I'll get to see how you will approach it. It's also nice to have validation of the "pink" decals. I was beginning to think it was just me. I disliked the decals so much that I decided to use the Groen wrap instead. I was quite pleased with how it turned out.
ReplyDeleteThe second half of the build on the tower gets interesting.
DeleteI guess I'm not the only one who couldn't dry fit it together. I went with the old Centuri instructions with much better results.
I ended up redrawing the decals and printing at home.
I've been searching your Redstone Build blog for more information about the 24mm motor mount. Did you build your own? I'm not sure what the Estes Body Tube number is... Does BT-67 sound right?
ReplyDeleteHi Flatlander,
DeleteNo, it's not a BT-67, the tube is an older style Centuri ST-20 tube, right around 2" in diameter.
I used the centering rings that came with the kit.
Take the rings and trace around a BT-50 tube. Cut inside the pencil line then sand the circle to a friction fit of the BT-50 tube. Glue in the larger BT-50 as normal.
You'll have to add some clay weight to make up for the difference in weight between a C6-3 and D12 engine. Press it inside the capsule.
DeleteExcellent! Thanks for the tips.
ReplyDeleteI’ve built the older version of this kit that comes with the two body tubes joined by a coupler. I never could get the center 1/4” thick black band decal to lay flat over the seam. After a few failed attempts I decided to lay down masking tape and plastic bags over each end and hit it with black gloss spray paint. In my opinion it looked better doing it that way. Building is enjoyable but applying decals is my least favorite part of it all
ReplyDelete