Thursday, June 19, 2014

New Kit Decal Problems

A question from wz2p7j on YORF:
"Is it possible to get bad decals? I'm trying to finish off a Photon Probe and the decals have to be the worst I have ever worked with. No matter how long I soaked 'em I still had great difficulty getting them to float off of the backing paper. The last one half started to come loose but the other half was stubborn as hell and I eventually tore the decal. And they kind of snapped loose rather than just floating loose. I even had a little soap in the water. Somehow I saved the decal and the rocket came out pretty nice but man, never, ever worked with decals that acted like this."
Chris
Others suggested using warm water to soak the decals. But I don't think that was the problem.

My response:
Decals are just inconsistent!
With kit decals now printed overseas, quality control would be hard to keep track of.
Even home print decal quality can vary from the paper batch to the clear coat used to seal them.

TIP: Never start with a larger, major decor decal on a model.
Cut something small off the side of the sheet, a small logo or something you may not want to use.
Keep track of how long it takes to release from the backing paper and use that as a guide for the remaining decals. That first test decal also gives a good indication how well the other decals will transfer and slide on the model.

1 comment:

  1. I don't know if you are/were using warm water, but I found that it makes a HUGE difference! When left sitting around, the water temp ends up around 70-degrees and too cool.

    When I prepare decal water, I find that there is a temperature where when I stick my finger in the water, it doesn't appear cold or warm - just neutral. Thermometers indicate that is at about 100-degrees. Makes sense...if my finger is at about 98.6 degrees. Anyways, thermometer or not, I found 100 degrees to be about perfect for quick wetting of any decals.

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