This is a dry fit of a fin. Notice the pencil mark on the fin root edge at the break between the body tube and tail cone.
Above the pencil mark, wood glue will be used for the wood/body tube joint.
Below the pencil mark, The Beacon Fabri-Tac glue will be used for the wood/plastic boat tail joint.
Crap! I got some bad Rusto 2X paint!
Luckily I stopped early and it sands down easily.
Why do I continue to use Rustoleum 2X?
The good outweighs the bad. It covers in fewer coats with a good gloss finish. I've only had occasional rough, "cottage cheese" with the gloss white paint.
After sanding the model got another coat of white.
I made sure to do some test sprays (off the model) to be sure the rough crud was cleared of the spray tube inside the can.
Ew, those Rusto bumps! I get those more often than I like, though I keep buying the paint for the same reason as you.
ReplyDeleteMy nicest paint job happened to be with Krylon, but I did have to do some wet sanding and polishing to get rid of a couple of small flaws. Other times, I get these "moon pock marks" with Krylon. I'm not sure why - they're these round, crater-like spots where the paint doesn't seem to stick or something. Very strange!
You're really making me wish I'd bought a few more of those cheap Monarchs when I had the chance. It didn't occur to me at the time that I could buy a rocket I'm not crazy about just for parts. I'm kicking myself now.
The cheap kids are also great starts for kit bashes or modded rockets. My wife turned an Estes Panavia into her Princess rocket, which is no more after an ejection issue last weekend. We also have another one she is going to turn into a USA themed rocket with flag shaped fins.
DeleteHi Daniel,
DeleteI had worse luck with the Krylon and Valdspar. Testor's is too expensive, Rusto 2X is a compromise.
Watch the Estes website, there will probably be more blow-out kits in the future.
I'm really interested in the idea of the Fabri-tac glue for wood-plastic bonds, especially given that the manufacturer does not claim plastic bonding with it. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone using it for this. How did you discover it?
ReplyDeleteHi Neil,
DeleteThe jury is still out - we'll see how it holds over time. It just reminds of the old tube plastic cement. Estes and Quest both have plastic adapters and tail cones that glue into body tubes. They recommend plastic glue but I don't trust some of the newer formula plastic glues.
I found this glue when I was making a joke sock puppet gift for my daughter. I was surprised by how well it glued felt together. I tried plastics after that.
Like I may have mentioned, I wouldn't use it to glue the Mercury Redstone tower with it.
When you and Lonnie forest showed me what a bad Rusto can could do, I had not experienced it yet. Well, I have now, and I found a solution via TRF. I bought a pack of ten aftermarket nozzles from an art supply house for four dollars plus shipping. The spray pattern is a little finer than the stock nozzle, but no more crud coming out.
ReplyDeleteHi Metal,
DeleteI don't think it is the nozzles that cause the cottage cheese rough spray. It may be the heavier pigment loaded up in the interior straw. Always shake the can for a minute and test on some scrap board to be sure the spray is good before going near the rocket. I've had more problems with their gloss white over the other colors.
I have extra nozzles, directly from Rustoleum. I emailed and mentioned their nozzles clog up before the can is out of paint. They sent me two dozen nozzles.
I got tired of the cottage cheese so I went back to Rusto-Stop Rust spray paint. Looks good and if I warm and shake real well I don't have any issues. I have never had the cottage cheese from Rusto Stop but had it a couple of times with 2X. Now for the nozzles, they will throw clumps at the rocket if the paint is older. To prevent this just email Rustoleum, they will send out a bunch of free replacement nozzles.
ReplyDeleteHi David,
DeleteI've gotten replacement nozzles from Rustoleum in the past. I just email them and they send out 20 or so. I'll have to check out the Stop Rust paint.
The Rusto rust stop has been around for ever but they did change the spray tip.
DeleteChris, I know it has been awhile since your white glue test. Are you back to using New improved Elmers white glue? Have you tried this glue? http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=e06720fc-44f9-42b2-8c5c-77e7d85cf624
ReplyDeleteHi David,
DeleteI saw that glue mentioned on the forums but haven't tried it yet. It looks like the best of both worlds - dries clear and is Titebond. I use a lot of white glue on visible areas because it dries clear. I don't like yellow showing through on models. Thanks!
I used to build all my RC planes and rockets with Elmers Glue all, but I'm not very happy with the new improved glue. The translucent glue from Titebond is good stuff if you like white glue like me. Also it sands much better than other white glue, especially good for rc builds.
DeleteHi David,
DeleteI'm not a big fan of the new formula Elmer's - it's too runny. I've been using Elmer's Yellow Wood Glue more now. I will try the new Titebond Transluscent glue. I so like that the glue is sandable.
Out of all the yellow glues I like Elmers the best, does not dry as yellow. When you try the Translucent Titebond, let me know what you think.
Delete