The tube is marked for the fins by placing the body tube on top of a marking guide. You are told to mark the fin lines between two of the corrugations.
I found it hard to do this. I ended up just marking the tube as best I could.
Notice the fin alignment line is continued over the edge of the body tube. There is four small tick marks over the back end of the body tube. When the fin is covering the line, having this extension over the back edge of the tube gives another point of alignment.
You can see the inside of the tube edge is darkened. This is CA glue wiped in the body tube ends for extra strength.
The mount is set back 1" inside the tube. It's not hard to apply and smooth a glue fillet to the mount on this lower end.
Applying the upper engine mount fillet from the top of the body tube is another story.
TIP: To spread the glue fillet, I used a 1/4" dowel with one end sanded round. Think of it as a long, thin fingertip.
TIP: To spread the glue fillet, I used a 1/4" dowel with one end sanded round. Think of it as a long, thin fingertip.
One drop of glue is squirted onto the rounded dowel end. Carefully place the drop of glue down inside the body tube onto the engine mount / body tube joint. Set the glue drop on the joint then spread out and smooth it using the rounded end of the dowel.
When getting the drop of glue down to the joint, try not to get glue on the inside of the body tube. Your target is the centering ring / body tube joint.
You can pick up any excess glue (glue outside the fillet area) with a few passes of the rounded dowel end. Pick up some glue, remove the dowel, wipe it off and go back in to pick up more excess glue.
Internal construction can be as just clean as outside surfaces of the model by taking a few extra minutes to do it right.
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