Questions? Good Questions and a Tip

Here's some questions and answers to Dana who wrote me at:
oddlrockets@bellsouth.net
Question 4 is actually pretty cool idea from Dana -

Hi Dana,

Thanks for writing, I'll do my best to give an answer or two.

My answers are only what has worked for me in the past. If you follow the rocket forums you know that everybody has their own way of doing things.

1. Do you get concerned about the black electrical tape "letting go" (on the motor mounts) after many heat cycles? I was wondering if the tapes' adhesive holds up well to that.

I thought I'd answered this in the comments section on the blog. If not -
I haven't had any problem wth electrical tape releasing over time. I would think that paper masking tape would loosen up long before a vinyl electrical tape would. It's tough to tell, since the tape is covered up once the mount is glued into the body tube.
Somebody on the forums had opened up a an old engine mount where paper masking tape was used. The engine hook was barely held by the deteriorating masking tape. black electrical tape was suggested and I knew it was a better way to go. Heck, it stays on spliced electrical lines for years - if it's properly applied.

2. For your carded models, especially the ones you print on 20lb paper. Do you clear coat them after all is said and done? Mine seem to get dirty easy so I thought about clear coating them but wasn't sure the ink would run.

I don't print carded models on 20 lb. paper, except for the body tube wraps. 110 lb. is used for the fins and "some" wraps. Most builder's who do carded nose cones (I'm not happy with the look of carded "shroud" nose cones) print the cones on 65 lb. card stock.

Definitely clear coat (lighter first seal coat) the printed card stock after printing. Then a heavier coat after the model is made. With an initial lighter clear coat before assembly the glue will still get into the card stock for a better bond. if the card stock is too well sealed, the glue may not old very well. Again, after it's built, do heavier seal coats.

3. Would you try this glue and give me/us your opinion on it? It's called E-6000. You can get it almost anywhere. I have been using it around the house for a while and just LOVE it. I've been slowly implementing it into the rocket hobby and am being impressed there also. I would really like to hear your pro's and con's on it. Here is what I am talking about: http://tinyurl.com/adgswrv

I'll have to check into this later - I'm Mexico right now, getting free Internet off the ship.
Be careful using Super Glues (CA or CYA) when assembling rockets. It'll stick well for a few months, then release! I understand Super Glues were used first in hospitals and medical units. It was developed it to close wounds. It bonds skin, then releases later after the skin has closed up.
Not great for rocketry construction.
I flew my Gooney Honest John once at a club launch. The upper launch lug came off before the model left the rod. The rocket went unstable.

4. Last is not really a question but something I've been doing over the past several years. Whenever I build a model with a big enough motor mount I always put my name and date and whatever else seems pertinent to the rocket written right on the mount. Then, years later when a model needs rebuilt and you pull out the motor mount you can get a quick synopsis of when and what was going on years before when you built the kit. I get a real kick out of some of them. Just an idea.

That is a great idea!
Years ago, I never re-built models, now I do. That's a good way to record when it was first built and any other information about the model.

Thanks for following the blog -

Chris Michielssen

www.oddlrockets.com