Titebond M&TG was used for fillets. Two layers of fillets were applied.
Run your fingertip down the dried fillet and you might feel some bumps. Those will show up after the paint is applied.
I wrapped some old 400 grit around a Q-tip for cushioned dry sanding.
It only takes a few passes to knock down any raised areas.
The entire model was assembled and sprayed gloss white.
After filling seams and filler primer sanding, these square tubes seem to be a little rougher than a standard Estes style tube.
Another white coat and more sanding followed.
NOTE: Never wet sand a model until the color coats are sprayed and the wood and tube surfaces are sealed by the paint.
I sanded into the TM&TG fillets. I thought the dark areas would show underneath the yellow paint.
Some gloss white was sprayed into a small cup. Enough white was brushed on to lighten the sanded through paint.
In the reflected light you can see some touch-up paint on the leading edge.
A touch-up like this can save you from another spray coat.
Hey Chris, I was wondering, how long do you let your paints dry before you do any wet/dry sanding?
ReplyDeleteHi Vilgilate,
DeleteI wait until the paint is thoroughly dry. That varies with weather, humidity and paint brand. I use a touch test, usually touching the paint on the painting wand, not the model. Some people use the "smell test". If you can smell the paint, it's not cured or dry yet. My sense of smell isn't good, I'll touch the paint left on the painting wand. If it is the least bit sticky, I'll leave it to dry some more.
For me, wet sanding is more like damp sanding. Too much water and you run the risk of the inside of the tube getting wet and swelling up. Use enough water so the "mud" doesn't stick to the paper. Paint will still stick to the sandpaper, but will give you a longer sanding time before you have to scrub off the accumulated paint dust.