![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitm7cvmRMNZU6YqzjI3KI41qNS5tWw98amROLPYX1MS6pV9nNQ0lWXVrAPXOG2mwHayV-m-jf-VKYgBu3AhujMCA2LN7upGUW6y3sKy2SGSEbwA19SMOVlC6YVyZ4pCyqCCVZv-VrJKtum/s200/Friction+Fit+A+011_WEB.jpg)
This is my Semroc Defender with a three engine cluster of C6-7s.
Here I'm twisting the engine as I slide it in the engine mount tube.
The "barber pole" angled tape wrap made it easier to install the three friction fit engines.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKAgqRXhf97KLTtp5r9ST7Q6MobuiNraFZx2zrEOblmN1PG36b6I3cDXKj_efSVNE_sKqD-Q5GTNOZveCUfWIEq0ku_FXAAK2wjJAUczCYbSs_X_UCnJqkJDsOvm5UR4V-j5xJN4en8FL9/s200/Friction+Fit+A+012_WEB.jpg)
You have to learn to RELAX YOUR GRIP when pushing an engine in with the other hand. This is when the body tubes can crimp and buckle.
This is especially true with the thinner BT-5, BT-20 and BT-50 tubes!
When I make a repro rocket (from the early 1960s when there weren't engine hooks) that requires friction fit engines I prefer the slightly thicker, stronger ST-7 (18mm) and ST-10 (24mm) tubing.
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