Usually I'll try an Estes logo decal first, or a decal I wouldn't use on the model anyway. This way I can test the soak time and how well it transfers onto the model. There was no extra decal on the sheet, even the kit name didn't have a clear coat on it.
Holding the decal sheet up to the light, I could see there was a wide overhang of the clear coat. I cut the escape rocket decal close to the black ink and tried to soak and transfer the clear edge.The clear strip broke up!I rarely use Microscale decal film but it can come in handy. This adds an additional layer of clear coat to an older, brittle decal sheet.
It seems expensive for the little bottle. I wonder if it is just re-packaged Future acrylic floor finish.
I applied a coat of the decal film onto the decal sheet with a foam brush.
Using my big Estes Little Joe for decal placement, I set the UNITED STATES down the body. The bottom of the second T in STATES Lines up with the bottom of the mid wrap strip.
Notice the clear areas on the decal seems foggy.
Turns out the decals didn't stick!
When they dried they turned up on the edges. I know, I should use the Microscale Setting solution. Well, I don't have any.
I'll have to draw and print up my own decals.
Your blog is my go-to resource for improving my rocket building skills and scanning decal/wrap sheets is one of the many things I do now because of following your builds - thanks Chris!
ReplyDeleteThanks Anonymous,
DeleteI'm glad the blog is helping out. I tend to scan almost everything anymore. The scans have come in handy a few years later when something gets broken or needs replacement.