The nose cone tip didn't last long. I'll have to build the point back up.
I used Carpenter's Wood Filler straight from the tub without thinning.
With the straight CWF it dries harder and stronger. It takes more effort to sand, but the new point will be much stronger than the original balsa.
All the "Tank and Accessory cut-out sheets" (part 9) were scanned in case I screwed them up. I can always print out more on 110 lb. shock.
If you've ever built a Dr. Zooch Saturn 1B, you know the small rolled tubes take patience - I usually need extras.
I went ahead and reinforced the open, exposed inside tube ends with thin CA and sanded smooth.
All the card stock sheets were ironed flat. I set a few pieces of 24 lb. paper over the prints before ironing.
Believe it or not, I actually iron over the shroud lines.
Right out of the box, (left picture) the rolled and loosely tied shroud lines are pretty kinked up.
Running a hot iron over the line straightens the bends (right picture) making it easier to tie the lines.
Lay down the line, then set the hot iron (cotton setting - dry) on top. Pull the line through, under the iron. When the parachute is opened it'll look better if the lines are straight.
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