This was talked about on the forums two years ago.
Elmer's had thinned out their glue and is now calling it a "NEW STRONGER FORMULA".
Many builders had problems using it, especially on couplers and engine mounts. The thinner glue quickly saturates the Kraft tubes and couplers. Engine mounts and couplers were freezing up and locking before they could be slid into the desired position.
Two years ago I bought six bottles of the old formula Elmer's Glue All.My old bottle of the original "Bonds Strong" formula on the left.
On the right is one of the six bottles I bought two years ago.
The glue in the bottle on the right is thinner.
I had suspected it then, it seems Elmer's filled the old bottle with the new thinner formula!
I didn't use the new bottle until this morning on an engine mount/centering ring fillet.
The new formula is VERY thin and easily runs.
The thinner glue could shrink up body tubes at internal glue fillets - the "Coke Bottle effect".
I read somewhere the G. Harry Stine preferred Aleene's original Tacky Glue.
It's thicker than the older Elmer's glue. It does dry clear.
We'll see if it allows couplers and engine mounts to slide without locking up.
Last November I did a test of all threes glues: CLICK HERE
It was a little more interesting than watching paint dry.
The final results are worth the test.
I took the nozzle off the thin bottle of Elmer's and put it on the Aleene's.
Most all the nozzles are interchangeable.
I like the smaller hole on the Elmer's nozzle tip.
Before I put it on the Aleene's bottle I ran it under some water to clear out the new formula Elmer's glue. The thinner Elmer's easily washed out of the nozzle.
I mean - easily washed out. No picking or scrubbing.
The running water was all it took to clear the glue.
I used Aleene's on one or two motor mounts successfully, but the last one seemed pretty resistant, like it was about to lock up. I thought perhaps I'd used too little, so on the next coupler I installed I used a generous amount. I did get the coupler into position in one motion, but it froze up immediately after I did so.
ReplyDeleteI've concluded Aleene's, like Elmer's Glue-All and Elmer's Carpenter's Glue, can't be relied upon not to lock up if you hesitate at all getting a coupler or motor mount positioned. I'm going back to using epoxy.
Hi Rich,
ReplyDeleteThe Aleene's is better than the new Elmer's for engine mounts. Aleene's makes a glue that is supposed to be close to the older Elmer's. I'll have to contact them and find out. Still, if I have any doubts, I'll use epoxy.
I have to wonder how many BARs have bought a kit and a new bottle of Elmer's. There have to be plenty of stuck mounts and couplers we never hear about.
I thought everyone used wood glues, like Titebond II or Gorilla Wood Glue (my favorite because it is less yellow) or even Elmer's Carpenter's Glue.
ReplyDeleteTitebond III has a longer working time, so it may grab less for installing motor mounts, but I prefer the faster drying time of Titebond II or Gorilla Wood Glue (this is not the urethane stuff).
Hi Eric,
ReplyDeleteNo, the old school guys still use white glue. It's plenty strong for LPR flying.
I'm just used to using white glues, like I've mentioned here, it dries clear.
Centuri was the first to sell re-bottled and labeled yellow wood glues.
Some of my smallest (fin skinned and tube wrapped) models require glue fillets over the print covers. Yellow glues look terrible over a printed surface.
White glues are used for simplicity, epoxy can be messy and smells.
But, if I can't find a substitute for the white Elmer's, I'll use epoxy for engine mounts.
I wonder why Elmer's switched out their formulas. It's just too thin and runs.