Did you ever get a wrap around decal in a kit that didn't quite match up or wasn't even?
There is probably a few reasons why.
There is no way a vendor can account for the thickness of your finish or the slight inconsistencies in body tube diameters.
In home print decals you can get it close though.
I was trying to make a home print decal for a Gyroc clone.
It should be pretty simple.
BT-20 diameter multiplied by pi.
.736" x 3.14 = 2.31104"
Round it off to 2.31"
But, you've got to allow for the thickness of the primer, white undercoat and final yellow paint coats.
I wrapped a piece of 20 lb. copy paper around the finished yellow Gyroc body tube.
It looked like it was closer to 2.35"
So, go with the average
2.35" + 2.31" = 4.66" divided by two = 2.33
That should be closer to the truth.
2.33" will be the new width of the decals when drawn up in Corel Draw.
I ended up adding a slight bit more to the width.
Here's the decals ready for printing.
On the far right is the wrap around decal from the Gyroc.
(Don't print from this picture - it won't be the right size or a good resolution)
TIP: Always include a 1" reference to anything you draw and run through a home printer!
It'll save you and other builders some frustration when the print doesn't fit the model.
TIP: When drawing home print decals, always include extras!
Home print decals won't act like a traditional screen printed decals you'll find in a kit. Home prints are a little more difficult to transfer and position.
You'll be glad to have an extra when that first decal curls back onto itself!
TIP: When working out bubbles from under the surface of home print decals, don't rub the decal surface!
ROLL the bubble out (from the center out) using a wet Q-tip.
It you rub the home print decal surface you could remove some of the thin acrylic skin and break up the ink on your decal.
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