There is probably a few reasons why.
There is no way a vendor can account for the thickness of your finish or the slight inconsistencies in body tube diameters.
In home print decals you can get it close though.
It should be pretty simple.
BT-20 diameter multiplied by pi.
.736" x 3.14 = 2.31104"
Round it off to 2.31"
But, you've got to allow for the thickness of the primer, white undercoat and final yellow paint coats.
I wrapped a piece of 20 lb. copy paper around the finished yellow Gyroc body tube.
So, go with the average
2.35" + 2.31" = 4.66" divided by two = 2.33
That should be closer to the truth.
2.33" will be the new width of the decals when drawn up in Corel Draw.
I ended up adding a slight bit more to the width.
Here's the decals ready for printing.
On the far right is the wrap around decal from the Gyroc.
(Don't print from this picture - it won't be the right size or a good resolution)
TIP: Always include a 1" reference to anything you draw and run through a home printer!
It'll save you and other builders some frustration when the print doesn't fit the model.
TIP: When drawing home print decals, always include extras!
Home print decals won't act like a traditional screen printed decals you'll find in a kit. Home prints are a little more difficult to transfer and position.
You'll be glad to have an extra when that first decal curls back onto itself!
TIP: When working out bubbles from under the surface of home print decals, don't rub the decal surface!
ROLL the bubble out (from the center out) using a wet Q-tip.
It you rub the home print decal surface you could remove some of the thin acrylic skin and break up the ink on your decal.
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