To see the listing, CLICK HERE
John said earlier that it would be a simple paint job (all white in this case) with decals.
He did add that the nose cone would be on that you couldn't turn on a lathe. I don't quite understand that "clue". I thought they might be leaning towards the all black SR-71 Blackbird.
This will be a welcome addition and should prove to be quite popular.
To get a jump start on a build, check out the instructions from JimZs - CLICK HERE
I don't think this is the bringback he was referring to on the show. I think that one is coming out in a few months.
ReplyDeleteThis one is a nice surprise.
Very excited about this one. The NikeX was my favorite rocket as a kid in the 70's and early 80's.
ReplyDeleteI have the InFlight version.
ReplyDeleteReviewing Mr. Boren's clues (and I'm paraphrasing from memory here):
ReplyDelete1. A nose cone that cannot be turned on a lathe. Like, possibly a capsule with launch tower?
2. It is the absence of color (where white is the sum of all colors). I, too, thought black, but it also could be a metallic color, like silver.
3. Easy to finish, but with a fair amount of decals. Like a silver body and black capsule?
My guess is the bringback he was referring to is the Mercury Atlas. The Nike X doesn't fit his clues, especially #2. The announcement may have been pushed back for one reason or another, like supplier problems. And since they are already using the 3.42 in. tube (for the Little Joe II) and the ST-20 Mercury capsule, this makes sense. We'll see. Cheers!
I think the Nike X is the scale kit that was hinted at and discussed on TRF in September. At least I hope it is - a new sci-fi and the Nike X would rock!
ReplyDeleteOops - Nike X isn't a scale model. Scale-ish looking perhaps!
DeleteIt's a good near scale representation of the Nike EX aka Nike Zeus EX aka Spartan ABM. A picture of the actual missile is here:
Deletehttp://astronautix.com/graphics/m/m049.jpg
The forward fins have been modified in the kit and relocated further down the tube, instead of on the nose cone, probably to prevent chute/shroud line snags.
To Openroad and BAR,
DeleteThat Spartan ABM is most likely what Estes based the Nike X kit on. The fin shapes and black decal markings are nearly identical.
Just when I said no more kits for a while. I hope Roger gets back open soon, so I can stop having to come up with enough to buy to make a Web order worth it. I don't mind, but I'm starting to run out of storage space for unbuilt kits.
ReplyDeleteI hear you, brother. I'm up to 2 full boxes, working on a 3rd. Just last night I ran into an obscure mom and pop online hobby store selling NewWay kits and the US Rockets HiTest 3100 at 40% off retail. Add four more to the pile.
DeleteAccording to their website, Roger and Bracha plan on reopening The Jonrocket website around the end of January. Love their personal touch: when an order was delayed they threw in a free kit for me! Reminds me of the old time Estes customer service.
BAR,
DeleteAs far as the build pile, I've probably got you all beat!
So who is the Mom and Pop Hobby store with the NewWay kit sales?
It's called Countyline Hobbies. But I just checked and there are only 3 kits left. I think I bought the last of 3 other kits (sorry!). Also no longer listing the US Rockets Hitest 3100. Plus shipping charges are quite reasonable.
DeleteHi BAR,
DeleteThat's Bob at Countyline Hobbies. He used to produce the Starlight line of model rockets. He's blowing out quite a few things - including what's left of his Odd'l Rockets kits!
New sci-fi rocket is on the Estes website - Protostar! 24", 5oz D/E powered - with fin pods!
ReplyDeleteCool. Looks like they're using the PNC-50CA nose cones as fin pods. That's in line with Mr. Boren's comment about using the parts they have a lot of in their kits.
DeleteHi BAR,
DeleteUsing those nose cones as one piece fin pods is a smart idea, something different. I wonder how they are glued on though? Sometimes the bond between plastic and wood are iffy.
My guess is the instructions will specify CA, especially considering their target market of younger builders. Epoxy can be a little messy, and there is somewhat of a learning curve in its' use. For myself, I would tack it on with CA, get the alignment right, then follow up with an epoxy fillet.
DeleteP.S. I've also seen them specifying plastic modeling cement for wood to plastic joints in other kits. We'll see.
DeleteHi BAR,
DeleteThey might recommend CA glue but it gets brittle over time and will crack off on a hard landing. I've learned that the hard way. There isn't really a good plastic cement out there anymore. I've had great luck using the Beacon Fabri-Tac. It contains acetone and that does break down the plastic a bit.
I do recall on the USS Enterprise and Klingon kits there were little ampules of contact adhesive to glue the vacu-form plastic parts to the cardboard and wood parts (for the plastic-to-plastic joints the instructions tell you to use liquid plastic model cement). Perhaps they'd recommend some form of contact adhesive?
DeleteOn the occasions I'd used some "all-purpose" cement like Devcon's Duco cement, it was OK for a few years, then it got brittle and simply snapped at the glue joint. Have not yet tried out the polyurethane-based Gorilla Glue ( http://www.gorillatough.com/ ).
DeleteWhat's a head-scratcher for me about Duco is that it's only the stuff I'd glued from around 15 years ago that seems to give out after a few years. On the other hand, some items that were glued back in the 1970s are still stuck together.
DeleteThe only thing about contact cement is some brands actually seem to dissolve vacu-formed styrene. I was applying some corrugated wrap recently using Permatex contact cement and it melted the wrap at the contact points. Don't know if other brands are better.
DeleteHi Naoto,
DeleteContact cement works well in some situations. The old Centuri Saturn V and 1B used contact cement for the wraps. But - who knows what the cement formula is now or if the current vacuform plastic is compatable?
Gorilla Glue is good for gluing nose weight (lead shot) in some nose cones. Pour some in, add a little water and it expands.
A good plastic to plastic and plastic to wood glue is the Beacon Fabri-Tac glue. It's like the old plastic glue from a tube. You apply and pull it away and a long string of glue is left hanging.
They may have changed the Duco glue formula over the years. Heck, they've changed everything else!
I just started building a Starship Nova which got me thinking of John's hints towards a new kit. The Starship Nova fits the criteria and would be a welcome classic kit return. It may also be the Attack Craft Orion. I believe they are already using that cone.
ReplyDeleteHi Buzz,
DeleteThe Starship Nova could very well be the upcoming kit John Boren hinted about. Black with lots of decals. You certainly couldn't turn that nose cone on a lathe.
Estes always uses exotic nose cones on more than one model. You might see it later on Nova Scout Ship.