Thursday, February 16, 2017
Crazing Paint? TIP
We've all been there. Imagine the frustration, especially on a build this complicated - The Estes QCC Explorer!
The builder had used Rustoleum 2X primer and followed with Rusto 2x Gloss White. As shown in the picture, the paint crazed.
I didn't post a response on Facebook. Twenty others already had, some giving bad information. My answer would have just clouded the waters.
On response said this is what happens when you put lacquer over enamel, or vice versa. Not true! Lacquer will dissolve enamel but you can use enamel over lacquer.
Another suggested using a Dremel tool to remove the paint. A Dremel would be too aggressive and could even go right through the body tube.
Still another response was to simply wipe off the wet paint and start over. If you tried to wipe off wet paint you'll have a bigger mess to clean up. It's best to let it dry, sand it down and spray again.
The real problem here - the builder probably didn't read and follow the re-coat time instructions on the paint can. I always check the drying time recommendations especially if I am using a new brand of paint.
Most recently I had to use some Valdspar spray paint. I rarely use that brand but they had the color I needed.
The can specified the temperature and drying times. "You can re-coat within one hour or wait 24 hours before re-coating."
I would assume the builder painted again after the one hour. The new wet paint reacted with the drying paint and made it pucker up. If the first paint has started to "skin" over (half dried) a new wet coat will cause the crazing.
Notice how most of the wrinkling happened on the body tube, not on the balsa. Balsa "breathes" more so the paint dried faster on the wood than a sealed body tube would. Nose cones take even longer to dry!
Painting is a crap shoot. Some days it goes great! On another day, the paint manufacturers change the formula and you've got to relearn everything!