While the first epoxy joint dries, the tube ends were prepped.
CA was applied to the inside of the tube ends using a Q-Tip. Sand the edges square with a block.
The instructions show CA glue being applied to the boat tail shoulder. When this is slid into the body tube, the glue would bead up on the outside of the top of the boat tail!
Plan ahead and apply the glue where it'll stay inside the model and leave you with less to clean up after it dries.
The epoxy (not CA) should be applied on the inside edge like the CA glue shown in the picture to the left. When the shoulder is slid into the body tube (and epoxy) the glue is spread out into an even bead - inside the tube.
When the boat tail shoulder is slid into the epoxy, TURN the tube to evenly spread out the glue bead.
TIP: At the right you can see alignment pencil tick marks on the boat tail and tube.
It really isn't needed on this model, but sometimes you should pre-fit the tube in a boat tail or extended engine mount unit. Turn the tube on the mount and find out what position is the best fit and mark both parts.
Epoxy is slippery and will let you turn the tube to that predetermined alignment mark.
Remember, epoxy won't "freeze up" in the wrong position like some white or yellow glues can. Be careful gluing in engine mounts or couplers - especially the new "Stronger Formula" glues.
From the top, an epoxy fillet was applied drop by drop using a rounded dowel to transfer the epoxy drop exactly on the centering ring body tube joint.
That rounded dowel end then spread out and smoothed the internal fillet.
After the fillet was set down completely around the joint, a Q-Tip was taped to the same dowel to pick up any excess or overflow epoxy.
Let the epoxy fillet dry with the body tube held vertically. Epoxy runs very easily.
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