After flexing the scored line back and forth it should crack on the cut. If it doesn't easily crack, go back and lightly score the line again. Don't pull or tear the sides off, score and crack!
The edges could be a bit rough, especially around the front and rear.
Notice the pen lines are still there, they will be removed in the next step.
Sand the bottom of the canopy back and forth over the sandpaper.
Keep sanding until the pen lines are gone, it should take about 10 minutes.
The problem for many builders is they don't work vacuform parts long enough. The Estes Saturn V fairings won't fit unless you sand them down a while. I've seen some Saturn V builds where the fairings weren't fully trimmed and didn't seat well.
You are getting close when small plastic "strings" hang off the sides. Look close at the lower right side. The sanded edge is barely hanging off the edge recess line.
This is the finished canopy from the underside. Note how clean the edges are.
Hey Chris,
ReplyDeleteMay I ask what kind of adhesive you use to attach the clear canopy to the body? I know that CA and modeling cement will craze the clear plastic. I tried Micro Kristal Klear in the past but it doesn't have a strong adherence: it's like thick white glue. Even has the same vinegary smell.
Hi BAR,
DeleteI used the thin CA made by Bob Smith. It didn't craze the plastic at all. CA glues can get brittle over time but the canopies have been staying on through many prototype tests.
You do have to sand the bottom of the cockpit to a BT-60 contour for more the best glue/edge contact. In the instructions I do recommend checking the cockpit and occasionally adding more glue if needed.
I don't have any experience using the Micro Krystal Klear. Their products do come in handy though. To me those small bottles seem pricey.