Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Estes Equinox Build Part 10, Paint Problems and Success

I've been doing any spray painting later in the day, right after sunset.
It's just too hot and humid in Central Florida, that effects the spray painting. (This was painted in August.)
I will assemble the Equinox in sub assemblies.
The jet tubes were sprayed with Testor's Master Modeler Gunmetal.
I've had great luck with the Testor's spray paint before, but not this time!
The jet tubes and fins are beyond hope and will be thrown away.
I'll cut new 4" long BT-5 tubes and sub fins.

On the other hand, the Rusto 2X gloss white came out great!
On the left you can see the card stock cover over the engine hook.
It came out very smooth.

The inset picture shows the previously crimped area of the tube. The crimp indentation is gone and can't be seen.


  1. I am surprised to see this happen with Testor's paint. I have experience this problem and cursed Rusto 2X. But I am beginning to suspect that something has changed with the coating on the white body tubes - or a combination of the newer paint formulations and the tubes. This problem can really ruin hours of hard work.

    I wish someone could determine root cause so that we all could avoid this aggravation.

    1. It was maddening! Like I mentioned, the Testor's paint has always been the best!

  2. Strange, I've had good success with Testors and gave up 2X for classic Stop Rust Rusto or old formula Krylon.
    I built this kit when it first came out, great flier. I guess I messed up on the lower fins gluing even with bt.

    1. Hi David,
      I looked at your build link, great work!
      I guess there's no right or wrong with the lower, rear fins. If the instructions aren't clear I go with whatever I feel like at the time.

  3. Hi Chris,

    I've had that 'crinkle' issue with spray paint before - not necessarily with Testor's paints (maybe Rusto 2x if memory serves). I determined root cause to most likely be related to base coats not being fully cured when I've sprayed the top coat. There was an interaction between the paints and the moisture remaining in the base coat that caused the top coat to constrict while flashing off. I think.

    You certainly know more about this stuff than I do, so I was curious about your thoughts on this possible root cause. It seems plausible that since you are battling humidity you are experiencing longer drying times than normal.

    And for what its worth, I've always been about to sand out crinkles like that, let the tube fully dry for a week, and repaint without any noticeable issues.

    Thanks for sharing,
    Matt D

    1. Hi Matt,
      My sense of smell isn't strong and giving paint a "sniff test" (to see if it is dry) doesn't help much. It was strange how the Testor's wrinkled and the Rusto 2X didn't. They were both sprayed on the same day.
      I had too many problems with the paint on these tubes they were beyond the point of sanding it out. You can see the the raised wrinkles, the picture doesn't show the "shingles" higher up on the tube.
      Maybe the Testor's didn't work over the Duplicolor primer/filler?
      Now in the Fall and Winter the humidity levels are low in Florida so drying times change again!

    2. I hope it is not the Duplicolor. I made a special trip to the autoparts store to buy some grey Duplicolor filler/primer. This stuff is great. It drys fast and sands beautifully, without clogging the sandpaper (Norton 3X 400 grit) . I was using Rusto 2X grey primer - but it does not sand well - gummed up the sandpaper. I will try some Duplicolor Lacquer to see if it performs as well as their primer.

    3. Hi Eero,
      The Duplicolor primer/filler is the best! Far better than trying to sand down the Rusto 2x primer. The Rusto primer seems rubbery when sanding.
      I'm also very impressed with the new Norton sandpaper. It doesn't load up as quickly as the older black 400 grit.

  4. This reminds me of the paint issue I'd run into many, many years ago when painting the USS Enterprise kit from Estes when I'd sprayed on some light camouflage grey -- I ended up with a "fractured" sort of finish where it looked like it had cracks covering the surface. It was indeed an interesting effect that I couldn't have imagined how I'd achieve if I'd meant to do it -- but alas it wasn't something I wanted at the time (the thought did enter my mind of trying to find an excuse for it -- perhaps saying the appearance was a weird "side-effect" of some weapon, such as a new version of the Romulan plasma torpedo -- however I'd have to add extensive "battle damage" to even try to make it even remotely convincing). Sanded everything down and repainted.

    1. Hi Naoto,
      Spray painting is a crap shoot anymore.
      Krylon used to be great. Now I'm still trying to figure out the Rusto 2X. The Rusto 2X gloss white comes out like cottage cheese sometimes. But I like the opaque coverage and color selection.
      I like how you tried to "justify" the fractured finish!
      Let's see, battle damage . . . or sanding and repainting.