Whether traditional silk screened (provided in some kits), Ink Jet or Laser printed (provided in some kits) and home printed - All have different soak times.
Play it safe and scan the kit sheet decals just in case you have to print up some extras.
Don't start with the largest decal on the sheet - Not that huge wrap-around decal!
Start small to get used to the soak time and how each kit decal transfers unto the model.
Look over the decal position on the model. Should the decal be cut close to the printed image? Will the clear coat overhang a seam or fin edge?
Plan ahead and cut out accordingly.
TIP: Make that first decal a "test" decal. Cut out the kit number or vendor logo decal, one you probably wouldn't put on the model anyway. This way, if it is ruined you still have all the important decals left over.
Soak only one decal at a time!
Start soaking and time how long the decal takes to slide off the backing paper.
Set the first decal in the water and count to 15.
Take out the decal and see if it easily slides off the backing paper.
This is just to play it safe, I've had decals slide off the backing paper after sitting in the soak water after only 15 seconds!
It should still be stuck on the backing paper. Soak a bit more.
Set the decal on a paper towel until needed. This doesn't mean to let the decal sit for an hour. Apply it in the next few minutes.
Some say the drop of soap breaks up any beading of the water or makes the decal slide for easier positioning.
Others say the drop of soap removes adhesive from the back of the decal.
I've used a very small drop of soap in the water for years with no real problems.
TIP: For good decal adhesion - Your paint surface should be glossy and smooth.
The picture above shows a decal floating on the surface. You can float a small decal on the surface for soaking.Try to keep the decal off the bottom of your water glass or dish. It's too hard to retrieve a small decal from the bottom of the glass. Tweezers will help pick up a sinker, though.
I know, I could use less water for the small decals. I was using more water for the larger decal soaking. The larger decals tend to roll up, I needed enough water so the entire (rolled) decal had coverage.
TIP: It's much easier to hold and soak smaller decals held with tweezers.
Soak for 15 seconds (1/2 average soak time) and lift out the decal.
Change the position of the tweezers on the decal and soak again. Moving the tweezers to the other side of the decal allows the entire decal surface to soak.
I agree with these tips. Although it goes without saying, start with a small decal or consider cutting a large/long one into shorter/smaller bits. By starting with the small decals you can get the feel of how long to soak them, and what technique works.
ReplyDeleteHi Anonymous,
DeleteI usually start with the ESTES decal to test the soak and transfer times. I rarely put the Estes name on my rockets, everybody knows where the kit came from.
Cutting really large decals (like the Mega Red Max and the Little Joe II) is a good move.